THE HISTORY OF RUSSIAN COURT ETIQUETTE

A.I. Barkovetz,
Ph.D. in History

Johann-Baptist Lampi 1751, Romeno-1830, Vienna Portrait of Catherine the Great. Circa 1793

Unknown Artist, early 19th century Portrait of Empress Elizaveta Alexeevna. 1810s

Stераn Schukin (?) 1762, Moscow — 1828, St. Petersburg Portrait of Emperor Paul I. Circa 1797.

The French Emperor Louis XIV introduced the word «etiquette» in the XVII century. At one of his grand receptions each guest received a card with printed behaviour rules everyone was supposed to observe. The French word for such a card was «etiquette», so that introduced the concept of «etiquette» as a set of behaviour norms appropriate in the high society. Court etiquette was carefully observed by the European Monarchy courts, both the rulers and their retinue were required to strictly follow the severely regulated rules and behaviour norms, which were at times close to absurd. Thus, the King of Spain Philippe III preferred to be burnt down by his fireplace (the lace on his clothes suddenly flamed up) rather than to put down the fire himself in the absence of the person in charge of the court fire ceremony.

The court etiquette first appeared in Russia during the times of the great «architect» of the Russian state, the reformer Tsar Peter I. The foreign elements of Western culture were often imposed by Peter the Great through the means of «whip and rack», when the Tsar often forced his boyars not only to destroy their patriarchal traditions and customs, but even to change their appearance and ways of life radically, turning their faces to the advanced Europe. New manners, etiquette, music and European fashion pervaded the «jail» Russia from the West.

The balls became one of the first newly established court ceremonials. The Royal Decree of 1719 stated the balls being the inalienable part of the famous Peter's assemblies. The Table of Ranks introduced in 1722 stipulated — among others — the court ranks, which after numerous changes compiled the strict hierarchy of the Russian Imperial Court.

After the death of Peter the Great the high society culture was developing dynamically. It did not blindly make an absolute copy of the Western model, but filled it with specific Russian features. The German influence was getting weaker, displaced by the French. The French language was becoming the language of the court and of the high society in general, thus it became an important part of nobility education and up bringing. The court etiquette was becoming more and more regulated, providing for especially splendid and magnificent features of the Russian Imperial Court. It affected the ambassadorial receptions in the first place. In 1744, during the reign of Elizabeth the «Ceremonial for foreign Ambassadors to the Russian Imperial Court» was developed. It specified the steps and actions starting from the moment of arrival of foreign guests to the Russian capital until the moment of reception itself.

The Empress Catherine the Great has undoubtedly played a special role in formation of the court etiquette in Russia. She was the author of the special «Hermitage» Etiquette, in which she insisted that the guests «should eat and drink well, but not to the extent that they might keep their feet under the table when it's time to dance». She also recommended the guests of Hermitage to admire «expensive porcelain statuettes and other objects of art just with your eyes, and in case these objects end up in your hands — do not put them by chance in your pockets».

Throne armchair of Nikolay II State Historical-Artistic Palace And Park Museum-Preserve "Gatchina"

Candelabrum for six candles Clock body State Historical-Artistic Palace And Park Museum-Preserve "Gatchina"

The Russian Imperial Court owned huge property: palaces, parks, theatres, singing choirs, magnificent collections of arts. Most of the year the monarchs stayed in the Winter Palace in Saint Petersburg, and sometimes in other palaces of the Russian capital. In the summer the Court moved to one of the countryside residences — to Tsarskoye Selo or to Peterhof. The vast household required pretty sophisticated management system. The structure of the court agencies was formed and changed within the course of many decades. In 1826 the Ministry of the Imperial Court and the Principalities was institutionalised, the Head of which was accountable to the Monarch directly, and as a rule had to be a highly credible person.

Providing for the proper respect and prestige of the Monarch was the main function of the Court. The Court consisted of people with titles and ranks. The Court ranks were divided into two classes. By 1908 there were 15 people who belonged to the First Class Court Ranks, and their ranks had the names of Arch-Steward, Arch-Marshal of the Imperial Court, Arch-Master of the Hunt and Arch-Schonk. 134 people belonged to the Second Class. In addition to those of the First and the Second Class, other people with court ranks were members of the Imperial Court. Those ranks were Chamberlain, Gentleman of the Bed Chamber, «Attached to Their Majesties» Medics, Furriers, Chamberlains, etc. The ladies of the Court had the ranks of Arch-Stewardesses of Imperial Court and of the Great Prince Courts, Maids of Honour, and others. No one belonging to the Court Rank could enter a marriage without a permission of the Emperor.

The Decrees regulating the Court Dress Code (uniform) were issued in 1831, and in 1834 the Special Decree set the order of female court dress of the so-called «Russian style». The colour of the velvet fabric and the design of gold or silver embroidery were based on the rank of the lady who wore the dress. Each Court Rank was attributed a specific uniform, and each uniform had separate sets for the balls, the ceremonies, for regular service and for a march. The higher the rank was, the more golden embroidery the uniform carried. The Arch-Steward had not a single seam on his dress without glittering arabesques and garlands.

The Court Ranks weren't merely «theoretical» (nominal), people who carried them had to follow certain duties. The Arch-Fonschneider accompanied the dishes served to His Majesty at the coronation dinner, the Arch-Schonk served the gold goblet with wine to the Tsar, the Arch-Master of the Hunt was present at the Imperial Hunting, the Equerries assisted the Tsar to get into the carriage, etc.

The Arch-Master of the Ceremonies of His Majesty's Court and the Arch-Stewardess of Her Majesty's Court were fully in charge of the etiquette and all the ceremonial procedures. We need to say here, that Emperors Alexander III and Nicholas II, his son, were quite indifferent to the ceremonial issues, while as the Emperors Nicholas I and Alexander II were very strict about following the court etiquette, about organization of Imperial receptions and grand entrances, so it was absolutely unacceptable for their Masters of the Ceremonies to make a slightest mistake.

A Hussar Life-Guards Regiment general's dolman and mantle Russia, 1817-1825 The State Museum «Tzarskoye Selo». Used to belong to Emperor Alexander I (an emperor from 1801 to 1825)

His Majesty's Hussar Life-Guards Regiment field-marshal-general's mantle and epaulets of the year 1855 standard. Russia, the 1870s. The State Museum «Tzarskoye Selo». The above articles used to belong to Emperor Alexander II (an emperor from 1855 to 1881)

The King's coat and the epaulets of the Naval Guards Depot admiral Russia, 1876 The State Museum «Tzarskoye Selo» The articles used to belong to Emperor Alexander III (an emperor from 1881 to 1894).

The King's coat, the cocked-hat and the epaulets of a British Royal Navy admiral The State Museum «Tzarskoye Selo» Belonged to Emperor Nicholas II (an emperor from 1894 to 1917).

The Imperial Entrances were among the most important ceremonies of the Russian Imperial Court. There were Grand and Minor Entrances. All Court Rank bearers were absolutely required to be present at the Grand ones. Personal invitations were sent out for the Minor Entrances. This ceremony was connected with the appearance of the Emperor and the Empress out of the inner chambers and ceremonial passing into the church. All members of the Royal Family got together in the Malachite Hall of the Winter Palace, and the Court Ranks bearers ready to participate in the procession gathered in the other halls. The officers in charge of the ceremonial issues played the major role at such times; they watched the pre-set order to be observed and organized the Imperial cortege. Everyone belonging to the Court Ranks had to wear a ceremonial dress. The military had to appear only in their retinue dress regimentals, the ladies of the Court had to wear white dresses of Russian style with trains. Only the Great Princes, the higher-ranking dignitaries and stewardesses were admitted into the church. All the others had to await the end of the service outside. On their way back The Majesties stopped at the Concert Hall and the newly appointed Maids of Honour were introduced to them, as well as the dames granted the honours for distinguished service, and in January The Majesties greeted the Diplomatic Corps.

The court balls were even of greater importance. The ceremonial procedures were very strict and absolutely no liberties were allowed, rigid hierarchy had to be observed. Various entertaining games were introduced into the course of the balls in the XVIII century: cards, lotto, forfeits. The new fashionable tobacco smoking had also become part of the ball entertainment. Special attention was paid, of course, to the art of dance. Special dance schools were opened, and wealthier people hired individual dance tutors and dancing masters. Teaching children the art of dance had gradually become a compulsory element of their up bringing. Polonaise, contredanse, quadrille, round dance, and some Russian folk dances (trepak, Kamarinskaya) became the major ceremonial dances. The ball itself by the XVIII century had become «not just a show, but a spectacular show. The decorations were of special importance: the architectonics of the ball room, the surrounding environment, the final fireworks, and even the setting of the dinner table — anything that could be attributed to the ball framework» (Е.V. Dukov The Ball in the Culture of Russia. From the book Culture of Entertainment in XVIII-XIX centuries Russia. St.-Petersburg. 2001. P.179).

In the époque of Catherine the Great the balls featured such great affluence, luxury and grandeur, that many of the contemporaries were truly amazed. The need to follow strict requirements of ceremonial regulations, to demonstrate splendid attire and personal skills of court etiquette and of the art of dance turned the balls into some sort of an exam for all their participants, the exam they had to take and pass to prove their social status. The ballet-masters and choreographers trained the children of aristocratic families not just to dance, but to observe other norms of court etiquette as well: how many steps they were supposed to make to approach the Emperor properly, how they were supposed to hold their heads, their eyes, their hands, etc.

After the Great French Revolution of 1789 an enormous flow of foreigners spouted to Russia. They brought their language, fashion, traditions and manners with them. The Emperor Paul I was so much afraid of the revolutionary contagion, that he declared war to waltzes, to round hats, and to anything French, which used to be so popular with his Mother's Court. However, pretty soon he annulled his ban on the waltz for the sake of his favourite Anna Lopukhina, who loved this particular dance very fondly. The new etiquette rules introduced by Paul I reminded his contemporaries of Prussian military manoeuvres.

The époque of the Emperor Alexander I opened by a series of court balls in both capital cities, and the high society members enjoyed coming back to cheerful festive life. The persecution of all the French was abolished. In early XIX century Russian aristocrats were copying not just the beau ideals of European exterior fashion. Their behaviour was supposed to comply with the fashionable «sentimentalism» (and later «romanticism»): the «delicate paleness» was highly desirable, as well as discussions on sentimental topics. The interest towards music, literature and fine arts had become obligatory. All this trendiness had undoubtedly affected the court etiquette, as well. In the XIX century the balls were becoming the obligatory appanage of the court and aristocratic life. The balls were no longer just ceremonial events; they were turning into the place of flirtation and amusement. New dances — cotillion, ecossaise, mazurka, British «promenade» — had become a fashionable avocation of the young people. However, any ball always started out with a Grande polonaise, which had never become obsolete and stood against the new waltz and mazurka. This particular dance, despite of its cursory lightness, was pretty ornate both in its figures and its meaning and demanded special skills and dignity of bearing from the partners. Dinner was an obligatory part of any ball, and usually it was pretty sophisticated, with exquisite and complicated dishes being served. One can remember the famous Guriev's Kasha (the product of fantasy of the chef of Count D. A. Guriev) — a sort of pudding made from semolina with cream seasoned with walnuts, pineapples and a variety of other fruit.

The ball fashion of the early XIX century was a mixture of costumes from various époques, different styles and cultures. One could see clothes with elements of Ancient Greek style, and waistcoats from Catherine the Great's times, and red-heeled boots (a sign of nobility in France). To wear a tailcoat with lengthy trousers was a special chic, a touch of European taste. Military officers had to wear regimentals, which differed by various decorations, special for each regiment and kind of troops. White gloves, white pantaloons and shoes with silver buckles were obligatory elements of the military dress code. The possibility to carry weapons at the balls was either forbidden or strictly regulated. Two attributes were absolutely essential for the balls: fans for ladies (and there was a whole art of expressing emotions using them), and gloves for men.

After the Patriotic War of 1812 the European influence on Russian culture, and fashion in particular, grew even higher. The wigs and short pantaloons were left in the past. Tailcoats, long pantaloons covering the boots, a pin in the tie and a pocket watch took their place. An image of a contemporaneous young man was developed, who was «dressed as a London dandy» (according to A.S. Pushkin). This was not just a tribute to fashionable dress, this was a sort of special philosophy — seeming disinterested during the balls, having a languishing and disdainful look... As for the Emperor Alexander I himself, he liked to dance, but was doing that in an extremely elegant and exquisite manner.

Vladimir Borovikovsky 1757, Mirgorod 1825, St. Petersburg Portrait of Emperor Alexander I

The portrait of Emperor Alexander II, dressed in the uniform of His Majesty's Hussar Life Guards' Regiment. 1860 The inscription and the date: N.Lawrov, 1860 The State Museum «Tzarskoye Selo»

Lipgart E.K. (1847-1932) The portrait of Emperor Nicholas II. 1900

An unknown painter The portrait of Grand Prince Aleksey Aleksandrovich (1850-1908), Emperor's Alexander II son.

Zhuravlyov V.G. The portrait of Empress Alexandra Fyodorovna. 1992 The State Museum «Tzarskoye Selo»

«The Don-Quixote of the Russian absolutism» was the nickname of Nicholas I. He was a great adherent of various court entertainment; for him it was part of the image of the powerful and prosperous Empire, where the Court had to amaze with brilliance, elegance, luxury and grandeur. For this Russian monarch regular balls were an equal priority with receiving the Ministers and with the church services. «During the young years of the Emperor Nikolay (Nicholas) Pavlovich and the Empress Alexandra Fyodorovna the Court was very lively. They both were extremely sociable and joyful, and they viewed entertaining the higher society as their duty, as well as their appearance to the public in theatres, at concerts, at promenades, etc. In other words, they lived openly, together with the others. The environment was Imperial, of course, very dignified: they understood the need of prestige. Grand dinners and balls were given in their palace all year round. Twice a year — on January 1st and July 1st — they gave the huge „peoples“ balls, the so-called „masquerades“. This name was preserved from the times of Peter the Great and his high successors, when such fancy dress-balls were extremely popular. During the winter the masquerades were held in grand halls of the Winter Palace, which were opened for all the public without any exception. In the summer such balls were held in the Great Peterhof Palace», — Baroness Frederix remembered. (From the memoir of Baroness M. P. Frederix. In the book The Mysteries of the Tsar's Palace (from the Maid's memoir). M.1997. P.299)

His son Emperor Alexander II also liked to throw balls. However, something elusive was changing in the atmosphere of court festivals. And that was the attitude of the Royal couple, first of all. Alexander II loved women's advertence and exhilaration and got carried away by the festive atmosphere. While his wife, the Empress Maria Alexandrovna, according to Count S. D. Sheremetyev, perceived the balls as her duty and boring obligation. (Memoir of Count S. D. Sheremetyev. M.2001. P.115).

It is curious, that the following Imperial couple had absolutely diametrical views on the balls. Alexander III started dreaming about the end of the ball as soon as he declared it open, while as the Empress Maria Fyodoronva could dance through all the night. The court etiquette and all the ceremonies had become much easier during the reign of this Emperor. He decreased the number of personnel of the Ministry of the Imperial Court substantially and introduced strict supervision over the expenses. Expensive imported wines were replaced by the Crimean and the Caucasus ones, and the number of Grand Court Balls was limited to four per year...

The court etiquette was strict about the norms for organizing the balls. The invitations to the Imperial balls were to be sent out no later than two weeks prior to the ball. The first ball of the season was held in the Nicholas Hall of the Winter Palace, where up to 3 000 quests were invited. Then the concert balls were organized (up to 700 invitees) and the Hermitage balls (up to 200 invitees). The titles of the balls matched the names of the halls in Winter Palace, which were allocated for the dancing. The bearers of the first four ranks of the Table of Ranks with spouses were invited to the court balls, as well as Court Rank bearers, foreign diplomats with their families, young officers — «the dance cavaliers» and special guests selected by the Royal family. The Steward kept a special Register of the invitees. Certain essential requirements were to be met to be able to attend a court ball: for men that was a formal right to be introduced to the Emperor, for women — the prior actual introduction to the Empress. The balls began, as a rule, at eight thirty in the evening. It was impossible to arrive late or to use the wrong entrance of the Palace. Everything was organized in accordance to special order: the Great Princes came through the entrance in the Saltykov lane, the bearers of the Court Ranks — through Their Majesties' entrance, civil servants had to come through the Jordan entrance, and military officers — through the Commandant's entrance.

Women were supposed to wear over clothes — pelisse or sortie-de-ball (special cape), to which they attached their visitors' cards. The head decorations were also regulated by the etiquette: married women wore diadems, and young ladies decorated their hair with flowers. The Court Dames attached the appropriate diamond cipher or a portrait of a Monarch to their left side (reflecting their rank). Officers showed off their dress uniforms. Court Ranks bearers, according to the regulations, had to wear short pantaloons and white silk stockings. The Master of Ceremonies opened the ball. In his hand he carried an ebony warder with an ivory globe, a double-headed eagle and the St. Andrew's blue ribbon bow on top. The orchestra started playing polonaise. The Emperor led the first pair, usually with the wife of the Dean of the diplomatic corps. The Arch-Marshal surrounded by the masters of ceremonies walked in front of the Emperor, as if laying the way for him. «The Court Polonaise was truly a hierurgy», — remembered the Head of the Registry of the Ministry of the Imperial Court A. A. Mosolov. (Mosolov А. А. At the Court of the Last Emperor. M. 1993. P.141). Then was the waltz's turn, then came mazurka, and then the guests were led into the room where dinner had been served. Cotillion was to finish the festival.

During the reign of Nicholas II the last Court ball was held on January 19 1904, and the war with Japan started in a few days. The Empress Alexandra Fyodorovna was staying farther and farther from the court life, closing herself inside her family and busy with the problems of her haemophilic son Alexis. The high society did not forgive her for that; the court people needed an Empress in the role of hospitable and friendly hostess in charge of all her partials. This conflict was then resolved by time itself. The World War I and two revolutions of 1917 put a final conclusive stop not only to the story of court life, but also to the history of Imperial Russia itself.

Other exhibits from State Historical-Artistic Palace And Park Museum-Preserve "Gatchina"

Unknown painter. Portrait of Grant Princess Аlеxаndra Pavlovna, 1790s, oil on canvas, 60х40	Table in the form of a tripod	Flint-lock rifles, Turkey, the beginning of the XVIII century
Dish, circular	Plate dessert, pierced	Tureen, with handles, shaped as wild boar, cover with figure of hunter
Basket dessert with two handles, oval, pierced, with moulded flowers Cream pot, cover with moulded flower 2 cups, 2 saucers, 2 tea spoons	Dish, oval, with two handls Porcelain Dish, oval, with two handls	Compote, shaped as leaf with high leg Wineglass-holder
Sugar-basin, with two handles, with moulded flowers and fruits	Tea-pot, with bronze handle, with moulded flowers and fruits